Oh, let's go to H &..whaaaat?

What??? Yogyakarta's traditional costume gone high street?

To figure out what you are is to figure out what you are not

The very first project for this year, along with Sewing and Pattern Cutting Technical files.

Some all-nighters. Emotional sewing. Productive days. Lazy days. Degradation of personal hygiene. Paper. More paper. Artist block. Satisfaction

I give you...

“To figure out what you are is to figure out what you are not” is collection designed for Autumn/Winter season based on the concept of ‘binary opposition’ – which in simplified terms means the relation of a pair of distinct linguistic items. The collection features designs inspired by the movie American Gigolo and Tibetan culture that created marriages between contrasting silhouettes, colours, and textures in each of its design.

Any favourites?

Slow down, you crazy child
you're so ambitious for a juvenile
But then if you're so smart, tell me
Why are you still so afraid?

Where's the fire, what's the hurry about?
You'd better cool it off before you burn it out
You've got so much to do and
Only so many hours in a day

But you know that when the truth is told..
That you can get what you want or you get old
You're gonna kick off before you even
Get halfway through
When will you realize, Vienna waits for you?

Slow down, you're doing fine
You can't be everything you want to be
Before your time
Although it's so romantic on the borderline tonight
Tonight,...
Too bad but it's the life you lead
you're so ahead of yourself that you forgot what you need
Though you can see when you're wrong, you know
You can't always see when you're right. you're right

You've got your passion, you've got your pride
but don't you know that only fools are satisfied?
Dream on, but don't imagine they'll all come true
When will you realize, Vienna waits for you?

Slow down, you crazy child
and take the phone off the hook and disappear for awhile
it's all right, you can afford to lose a day or two
When will you realize,..Vienna waits for you?
And you know that when the truth is told
that you can get what you want or you can just get old
You're gonna kick off before you even get half through
Why don't you realize,. Vienna waits for you
When will you realize, Vienna waits for you?

Billy Joel//Vienna

currently: in need to slow down

Changes

sometimes, you just have to enjoy them

currently: modifying my design concept

As you may or may not know, this month is the end of my first year as a Fashion student. Happy? No doubt. Satisfied? Ehh... with this one, I can't really decide yet. Since the beginning of the course, I have been questioning the methods of teaching that I've been offered. This year (Year 0) was meant to develop ourselves with the basics in fashion design, and I understand that we were supposed to conduct our learning independently. But, does being independent mean being let go completely? I guess my main concern was, were we asked to be independent, or were we neglected? To be honest I really don't want to say anything, in order to avoid being too judgmental.

Let's just get down to the facts. Throughout this year, we have been given project after project after project. And it's almost always like this; we were gathered at the beginning of the project to be given the project brief, and discuss it together. Then, we're off to do our own things. Starting from research, analysis, and finally compiling the whole thing in the sketchbook. Yes, we did have one-on-one tutorials with the tutor once a week to show our progress and found out where we had to improve. And at the end, we had the presentation - followed by written feedback and the marks sometime after.

There was one project that was a bit different; where we had to actually make clothes (remember?). And for that project - maybe because it was practical - we did get step-by-step instructions and constant assistance from the tutor. Maybe, this was what I expected. I expected to receive this kind of teaching for everything, e.g. sketchbook, because as I recall, for the first portfolio project, I didn't even have a sketchbook - where we compile our research and ideas, and the development until we came up with the final result - because I didn't know that it's crucial for such projects (bear in mind that some of the first projects weren't "design projects"). Maybe, because I had no idea about this year when I started, I expected that they would actually teach us on how to make a good sketchbook. Instead, I learned it by myself, partly by watching my classmates' presentations.

Are you getting what I'm trying to say here? Are you still awake?

Well I guess to sum up everything, I would say that I have no idea if I have done my learning correctly this year. If this is what being independent is all about then I have to embrace it, make the most of it, like it or not. Because I felt that all I've done this year was trying to be a good student; trying to make the teachers proud by fulfilling all requirements and whatnot. But I guess it's a bit different in my department. What's more important is to be a good designer, express my ideas and thoughts however I wish, without limiting myself to any "academic criteria" - well, NOT entirely.

I admit that I have learned A LOT this year. Let's see what will happen next year.

Have a good summer everyone!

*I know I will, because I'm going home to J.A.K.A.R.T.A :)

Dubai International Airport

June 2010

Restraining The Free

June 2010//

With this holiday spirit, I would like to apologize for abandoning this blog. I know it has been too long since I "promised" to write about the last project I did for completing my first year in Uni.

The last project of the year consisted of two things, an A3 portfolio of our own works throughout the year that we have selected and compiled "professionally", and a design project that allowed us to decide our own area of interest.

Now, I don't want to bore you with details of what I had to do. I'll try to explain it as brief as possible:

I titled my project "Restraining the Free". Why? Because I did a study that involved a comparison between corsetry - which obviously is a restraining garment that is controversial especially in the old days - and drapery - which I considered the exact opposite of corsets. With thorough research and extensive reference, I wanted to prove the superficiality of corsets. Using this title, I did my research of the two things from different aspects; history, social, culture, etc. As the outcome, we had to create designs based on our research and experimentation.

At first I thought I would reject the whole idea of corsetry, but my research led me to accepting the concept; and that would contradict my initial goal. This was when I started to feel uncertain. I had a talk with my tutor before I went on with the research, I told him "I don't know where I should direct my research; I want to reject the concept of corsets but my research so far have pulled me in to accepting the idea", and he said "Just go on with your research for now, don't think about the final outcome, just take in everything that comes to you"... and so I did. I decided to combine corsetry and drapery, because I've found that both of them reflects beauty in their own unique ways (this was where the research went long).

Throughout the process, I was inspired by so many things! Sea creatures, Kebaya, architecture, and paintings were a few of them. This long process finally brought me to designs that incorporated corsets AND drapery, showing its gift of freedom to the human body as well as the beauty of control that the corsets conveyed through the 'perfect' bodily structure.

And, finally, the collection line up. I'm not very happy with them, though. Most of them didn't seem really connected to the researches I have done (images above). But at least I've realised that and learnt something.

That is what's count.... right?

coming soon

Nature will never fail to inspire me...

New (and final) project of the year in progress

Photo taken from: Sea Change

By: Liz Deschenes

Wishlist

I want this... no, not the stand. But the whole 72 Copic Markers set :)

Saw it the other day at a local art shop, and it costs a good £180.

Okay, maybe I can get the set of 36 markers to start with, but still... it costs £90!

Why?

freedom

when you are given so much, make sure you know what you want to do with it

... and it is not easy

Currently: Brainstorming ideas for final project which we have to create our own brief

TO LET

I've written a post with a same title on my group blog, Bus Tingkat Merah. But that's when we were still looking for a place for next year. Now, we have found one - and it's officially ours!

Lots of story behind this, we found a place that we like, we lost it, we went to see another house, we hated it...and so on

So, here are some pictures!

This is going to be my room - without the TV of course, and without the mess - a guy is living there at the moment.

These are the kitchen, and living room. Really nice compared to one of the house that we saw... let's just say, with that house you can't really walk barefoot - not because the floor is dirty but you will definitely get splinters because the wooden floor was kind of breaking off.

And, this house has a backyard as well :)

In September, I will be moving in with 3 of my friends: Ana, Maddie, and Meagan; and we are hoping that we can live here until we finish our degree.

So, what do you think?

Eco-reading

I'm very proud to say that I have found the perfect magazine!

As you can see from the picture it's called "Above Magazine: For the Earth"

Personally I think it's a combination between Dazed&Confused and National Geographic. What a unique combination, huh?

Basically this beautiful magazine shows the different approaches to protect the environment - or at least to be aware of what is happening at the moment. It has sections on culture, travel, fashion, architecture, art, beauty, food, music, living ... and the list goes on.

At Last ...

... this project is entirely finished!

I'm so glad that I can finally get it over and done with. After two months working on the same project, it got really boring. But to think of it, with a shorter period of time, we wouldn't be able to finish what we had to finish... so, I guess things happen for a reason.

These are the final things that I have to submit:

1. Developmental Sketchbook

2. Technical File (showing samples of experimentation with fabric treatments AND images from magazine showing how each technique can be applied on garments AND costing sheet for each garment)

3. Portfolio (moodboard, illustration, final product, photoshoot, and spec drawings)

4. Customer Profile report and Market Research report

+ PowerPoint Presentation on the process of making the garment - which going to be held tomorrow

Quite a lot, huh?

slow-paced

I'm thankful for the clear sky today, I can watch the clouds moving slowly and it calms me down.

Thank you

Role Model

The great artist whom I truly miss

Ratmini Soedjatmoko

see you in 3 months Eyang Mini

:)

Rag-and-Bone

About a month ago we were given new briefs to work on, and I found this one really interesting because it involves recreating secondhand garments which was randomly picked out for us. A got a pair of trousers, a bath robe, and a pillow case

...lucky, huh?

With using all these rags, we have to come up with our own interpretation of HAPPINESS; so I went for festivals, particularly tribal festivals and finally correlating it with nature.



So, after about 2 weeks of hard work and tired eyes after all hand-stitching and top-stitching, making new seams, unpicking the existing stitching, and all sorts to create a garment out of those abandoned fabrics... I succeeded to create this look.

Yes, the dress was originally the pair of trousers.
Yes, the capelet was made from petals that I made from the bathrobe and the pillowcases.

I really got tired of looking at my dress for 2 full weeks and decided that I hated it. But, at the end, it really looked like how I wanted it to look :)

Today was the 'judgement day'. People from Ideal Home Exhibition in London came to choose some of our garments and bring them along to be shown on their catwalk show. My dress didn't get to be one of them... BUT our first "client" - Mind Charity Shop who is opening a new store down in Brighton came to me and said that they would use my dress - and some others - to be exhibited during the launching of their new store, AND they are doing a photo shoot for it as well. YAY

Unfortunately this project is not entirely finished yet. I'd still have to work on the sketchbook, presentation, costumer profile, research report (of other charity shops), and technical file with all samples that I did before I started working on the dress. Wish me luck!

ancient

The greatest feeling I had when strolling around Camden Passage, Islington, London; where all the 'hidden jewels' of vintage fashion reside. I was amazed by all of the different varieties of vintage garments, accessories, collectibles; particularly this one...


If they really are 90 years old, then the owner of the shop should really get an award :D The sequin robe looks beautifully ancient. I didn't even bother to ask how much it worth; or at least, whether they are actually selling it.

I definitely will return to this vintage heaven another day...


... with some cash ready, of course :)

One of the most beautiful dresses I've ever seen, from the vision and passion given by one of the most talented designers in history


RIP Alexander McQueen
11 February 2010

Passenger Seat

I roll the window down
And then begin to breathe in
The darkest country road
And the strong scent of evergreen
From the passenger seat as you are driving me home

Then looking upwards
I strain my eyes
And try to tell the difference
Between shooting stars and satellites
From the passenger seat as you are driving me home

"Do they collide?"
I ask and you smile
With my feet on the dash
The world doesn't matter

When you feel embarrassed then I'll be your pride
When you need directions then I'll be the guide
For all time
For all time

Passenger Seat - Death Cab For Cutie

"huh, the irony..."

Ok, I admit that this is just confusing!

This week, I started reading 2 books;

The Culture of Fashion by Christopher Breward - which is actually part of the "Essential Reading" list that I got as a part of my new module, and...

Dematerializing: Taming the Power of Possessions by Jane Hammerslough - which I just got from my Dad (I asked him to bring it along when we met up in Holland).

Just to be clear, even before I held these books in my hands, I knew that I am interested in the subjects given by both books. BUT, what I didn't realise until now is that each book contradicts the other. I realised that I am now living in a materialistic world, and I wont deny it that I can be very materialistic at times :p Thus, came my interest in reading a book to 'tame the power of possessions'; starting from my own. Before finished with the first book, I moved on to the second book - which the list I've just received recently. Laid out chronologically, this book brings the readers through the history of fashion throughout the centuries - including the external factors like the socio-cultural aspects. I started with the last chapter in the book, about the late-twentieth century; the present day. This chapter talks about how quickly the concept of fashion changes, and how the so-called contemporary fashion doesn't necessarily mean 'meeting the costumers' demands and needs'; even some are simply forms of aesthetics.

Reading these two books at around the same time, made me think; am I betraying my own values here? Not only as an observant, I am actually involved in the concept of "materialism". I am studying FASHION for God's sake! Even these 3 magazines are becoming my most dominant periodical resource!
Yeah, so... I'm a little lost here...

Help

pa.per |ˈpāpər|

Remember my entry entitled Papyrus? Well that was the beginning of my Papery project, and at 2 am this morning, I finally finished my developmental sketchbook for it and handed everything in 7 hours later.


This is what we ended up with; a whole outfit made out of paper...only paper






The whole outfit was inspired by Beatrix Potter's character; Peter Rabbit.
I worked on it with my talented friend, Ms. Meagan Wellman for weeks!
Lots of frustrations surfaced on the process, but, we're happy with the result :D

Wish us luck for the presentation tomorrow!

Pride

I'd like to thank my Mom for sending me magazines from Jakarta; because of course the content would be different to magazines in the UK.

"...one of them covers this year's Jakarta Fashion Week..."

That was mainly the reason why she sent them to me :)

As I was flicking through 'Femina, Edisi Tahunan 2010', I found a page that has images from a runway show. I realised that the models are wearing batik; and I thought that they must be from Jakarta Fashion Week. However, it seems that the photos are different from the images I saw from the Fashion Week the year before; starting from the make up on the models, the catwalk, even the style of photography. So I looked more closely and saw the designers' names; and it turned out that one of them is Dries Van Noten!

This Belgian designer included - not only tints of batik - but the whole fabric as the actual garments.



A blouse with big 'parang' pattern



Smaller 'parang' pattern on a dress

I was really proud when I saw this :)
But one question came to my mind,

If anything, I don't see that his designs are more special than any Indonesian designers who have been recycling batik as ready-to-wear fashion for years now; then how come they don't get that much recognition?